Connect the water supply line into the manifold time and control valves. Be sure to also attach a backflow preventer so that if the water system loses pressure you will not syphon water from the sprinkler system into the potable water.
Install the timer unit near an accessible power source. Attach the timer to the wall near a power supply by your front or back door. Set up the unit by connecting the wires coming from the sprinkler valves to the numbered terminals in the timer unit. Test that the timer unit is properly installed and works correctly by manually testing each of the sprinkler zones from the timer control box.
Without a timer unit, your sprinkler system would spray water 24 hours a day. Turn the control valve on that supplies water to 1 zone. Allow the water pressure to flush the pipes of any debris or dirt which has gotten into them.
This should only take 1—2 minutes, but doing this before installing your sprinkler heads will prevent clogged heads later on. So, clearing the pipes at this point can save you time in the long run. Install your sprinkler heads at the ends of the installed risers. Place the heads according to the locations where you mapped them on the drawn schematic.
You can also locate the heads by finding the ends of the risers you installed. Depending on the height of the heads, each should be installed about 6 inches 15 cm deep. Pack the soil firmly around the heads to hold them in position. Set up the control valve and backflow preventer in the next zone. Once you have successfully installed the sprinkler heads on the first zone, move on to the next zone. Working in sequential order will keep you from overlooking any part of sprinkler system or accidentally forgetting to install a sprinkler head.
Part 4. Observe the spray coverage and direction of each head. Turn the zone valve back on and see how each sprinkler head sprays. Also adjust the spray pattern and distance with the adjusting features designed in your particular head. Most have a small radius adjustment knob on the top of the sprinkler head. Walk the length of your ditches to check for water leaks. Take a close look at the bushings and other fittings to make sure none are leaking water.
When you are satisfied there are no leaks, turn the valve off. If you do happen to find a leak, unscrew and reattach the bushings and pipes, taking care to screw them together more tightly this time.
Backfill your ditches and pack the soil in firmly. Shovel up any roots or other organic matter that you unearth while installing the sprinkler pipes. Dispose of these materials in the trash or compost bin.
Mike Garcia Licensed Landscape Contractor. Mike Garcia. If you're dealing with an overhead spray irrigation system, first determine where the leak is coming from. If it's coming from the top part called the nozzle, unscrew the broken nozzle and then screw a new one on. In the case of drip irrigation, determine where the leak is coming from first. Next, locate the pressure coupling. Cut the broken drip if it's not severed all the way through and put the pressure coupling on both ends.
Push on it, and it'll be good as new. Not Helpful 0 Helpful 0. TC Williams. Check and make sure the Solenoid is working correctly when sent a charge from Controller. If not check wire splices for good contact and waterproof screw cap at valve, then Controller.
Most all of the valves can be taken apart by loosening screws or Ring around top Bonnet. Do not lose screws. Carefully pry the top of the valve Bonnet off of valve the Body to check the Diaphragm for tears or holes. Replace the Diaphragm if needed after flushing out the Valve Body of any debris. Replace the Valve Top Bonnet and do not over tighten screws. Not Helpful 1 Helpful 3. Dig the dirt out from around the popups, and backfill by hand at first, holding the popup where you want it to be with the other hand.
Pack the dirt down as you go. Not Helpful 3 Helpful 3. Not necessarily. However, it is generally a bad idea if there are any glue joints in the pipe.
Over time, glue joints weaken and eventually fracture. Concrete over pipes makes it difficult to fix. The concrete will either have to be broken, or the pipe will have to be cut and diverted if possible. Not Helpful 1 Helpful 1. A soaker system depends mainly on the types of heads you're using in the sprinkler system.
They're more commonly used in irrigation systems that in sprinkler systems. However, you can purchase small soaker-type heads to attach in your sprinkler system for the same overall effect.
These soaker-type heads are somewhat similar to bubbler-type heads, except they're install beneath the soil. Include your email address to get a message when this question is answered. Irrigation systems include a fair amount of moving parts that require periodic adjustment and replacement over time.
Sprinkler heads can shift out of alignment and may require manual readjustment to ensure proper coverage of the zones they were designed to water.
They may also become damaged during routine yard maintenance, such as mowing, and require complete replacement. You should also be aware of potential underground damage to water pipes and the need to winterize the system during colder months. Pests and intrusive tree roots have been known to damage underground sections of irrigation systems resulting in costly repairs and damage to the lawn since portions will need to be dug out to access and repair cracked pipes.
Irrigation systems installed in colder areas of the country that experience hard freezes will require winterizing to avoid permanent damage since residual water is stored within the underground delivery pipes. If you already built a new home, but now want to add an irrigation system, here is a brief overview of the process:. A professional installation team typically begins by visiting your home and creating a diagram of the exterior areas to be covered by the irrigation system.
Once exterior coverage areas have been established, they will then be divided into watering zones. Lawn zones typically include standard sprinkler heads that disperse water in a circular pattern, while garden areas may require directional heads or even softer impact bubbler hoses to help protect more delicate plants. Once completed, your zone coverage map should display exactly how each section of your lawn and garden will be irrigated and allow you to see any coverage areas that may have been missed and need to be addressed.
Once the zones have been mapped out and all required local permits obtained, your installation team will begin excavating your lawn into trenches to bury the needed water delivery pipes 1 to 2 feet underneath the surface.
Throughout the various sections of underground piping, valve boxes will be added to control water flow to the sprinkler heads within specific sections. This helps to create the individual watering zones. The installation team will then replace all soil and plants displaced by the excavation process so your lawn and garden may begin the new or regrowth process.
Now that the irrigation system has been installed, it will need to be told when to run and for how long. It is usually installed in a garage or other out-of-the-way area of the home, easy to access but not overly visible. A controller unit allows you to set the frequency, duration and days the irrigation system will run and may be connected to other devices such as soil monitors and rain gauges to further enhance its ability to adapt to changing weather patterns. With the irrigation system in place and connected to a central controller, you now get to select the frequency and duration of watering periods for the various zones.
Most new owners are unfamiliar with the proper watering duration to program into their controller unit. Using standard sprinkler heads for your turfgrass is fine, but lower spraying heads work better for zones containing trees and shrubbery.
Drip irrigation works better used in areas such as a vegetable garden. Before you rush out to purchase all your DIY irrigation supplies, you need to determine several important aspects about the flow of water through your system.
Once you figure these out, you can purchase the correct parts. Water Pressure: You want to determine the working measurement of your water pressure, which is the pressure while the water is turned on. Using a pressure gauge, attach it to an outside faucet and turn on the water, making sure all the water is turned off both inside and outside the home when you do this. The gauge then tells you the water pressure per square inch psi.
If for some reason you cannot locate it on the outdoor box, you can call your water company for the information. Size of Service Line: To purchase the correct size pipe that matches your existing water service line, be sure to measure it before you purchase the PVC pipe for your lawn sprinkler system.
The steps for determining your flow rate are basic:. Tip: Nancy Foreman notes that the most important thing to remember before you actually install a lawn sprinkler system is knowing the water flow rate in gallons per minute GPM.
That, plus how much water each sprinkler head utilizes allow you to install the correct amount of heads. Installing too many heads in a zone with an inadequate flow rate results in the area not being watered properly. Now that you have mapped out your area for installing your home sprinkler system and designated zones based on the plants growing there, you will need to select the best sprinkler head types for each area.
Different yard configurations and vegetation call for different head styles. No one head fits all situations. Now that you located utility lines, drew up a plan and purchased your supplies, get to work and install your home irrigation system. Using your layout of the area, place a landscape flag or stake in every location where you plan to install a sprinkler head. Use string to mark where the pipes will go.
Following the string, dig your trenches for your pipes, 6 to 12 inches deep. Nancy Foreman notes that one of the biggest mistakes people make, other than not placing the heads properly for percent coverage, is not digging the trenches deep enough. If you have the trench too shallow damage can occur to the pipe and it can become exposed. You can make your life of filling the trench back in a lot easier by laying soil to one side and placing the sod to the other.
You can rent a power trencher that makes digging the trenches a lot easier than by hand. To keep from digging up the entire lawn, you can use a pipe-puller to install the PVC piping.
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